Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid found naturally in grains such as barley and wheat, and produced by yeast that lives on skin. Despite the name it does not exfoliate the way glycolic or salicylic acid does. It works more quietly, interfering with the enzyme tyrosinase involved in pigment production and calming the visible inflammation that follows breakouts. Ten percent is the concentration commonly used in cosmetic products.The clinical literature on azelaic acid is unusually solid for an ingredient this gentle, though most of it covers prescription-strength 15 and 20 percent formulas, where reviews report meaningful improvement in papulopustular rosacea, acne and melasma, with mild and usually temporary stinging. Data specific to 10 percent over-the-counter products is thinner. It is reasonable to expect a slower, milder version of the same direction of effect rather than the same outcome.Korean brands tend to frame 10 percent formulas around calmer, more even-looking skin and fewer visible marks, often buffering the acid with hyaluronic acid or centella. Those are sensible claims; anything about clearing rosacea or melasma belongs with a dermatologist, not a serum.It suits skin dealing with redness, small bumps and brown or red marks left behind after breakouts, including skin too reactive for retinoids. It is also one of the few actives generally considered compatible with pregnancy, though that call belongs to your physician. Skip it if you already have an irritated, compromised barrier, and start every other night rather than daily.Azelaic acid pairs comfortably with niacinamide, panthenol and ceramides. Stacking it with strong AHAs, BHAs or a retinoid in one sitting is where irritation usually comes from, so alternate nights instead. Daily sunscreen matters, since marks fade slowly and re-darken quickly.Our pick: the Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum.

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